The DOs & DON’Ts of Clipping Dog Nails Trimming your dog’s nails isn’t just a cosmetic task, it’s essential for their health and comfort. Regular nail care prevents discomfort and long-term issues, making it a vital responsibility for pet owners. To make the process easier and safer for both you and your furry friend, here’s a guide on the DOs and DON’Ts of dog nail clipping. How to Know When Your Dog’s Nails Need Trimming The key to successful nail trimming is avoiding the quick, the blood vessels within your dog’s nails. Cutting into the quick causes pain and bleeding, so always trim below where the nail curves. Over time, regular trims will encourage the quick to recede, reducing the risk of injury. Long nails can lead to serious problems. When your dog’s nails hit the floor, it affects the way your dog walks. It puts pressure on their foot and leg structure, which can have both short and long term affects, like injury and arthritis. Additionally, overgrown nails can curl into the foot pads, causing extreme discomfort. How Often Should You Trim Your Dog’s Nails? Aim to trim your dog’s nails every 3–4 weeks or roughly once a month. Dogs that spend more time outdoors may naturally wear down their nails on hard surfaces, requiring less frequent trims. A simple rule: if you hear their nails clicking on the floor, it’s time for a trim. Does Nail Trimming Hurt Dogs? Dogs don’t have nerves in the nail itself, so trimming doesn’t hurt as long as you avoid the quick. However, they might be confused or hesitant at first. Stay calm, offer positive reinforcement, and be patient while they adjust. Trimming Your Dog’s Nails: What to Do 1. Introduce Nail Clipping Gradually Help your dog feel safe by gently touching their paws and toes regularly. Use a positive tone and offer treats to create a comfortable experience. Starting this process during puppyhood makes it easier. 2. Have the Right Tools Invest in nail clippers designed specifically for dogs. Guillotine-style clippers can crush the nail and hurt your dog, so choose wisely. Your groomer can recommend appropriate tools and show you how to use them. Keep styptic powder on hand to stop bleeding in case you accidentally cut the quick. 3. Use Proper Technique Hold your dog’s paw gently but firmly. Use your thumb to press the paw pad and extend the nail with your forefinger. Trim only the tip of the nail, and don’t forget the dewclaws on the inner side of the paw. If unsure, bring your dog to the groomer. 4. Reward Good Behavior Positive reinforcement goes a long way. Keep treats nearby and praise your dog for cooperating. Associating nail trims with rewards will make the process smoother over time. 5. Seek Professional Help if Needed If you’re uncomfortable trimming your dog’s nails or if your dog resists, consult a professional groomer or veterinarian. They have the expertise to handle the task safely and effectively. Trimming Your Dog’s Nails: What to Avoid 1. Don’t Rush Rushing can lead to accidents and make your dog associate nail trims with stress. Take your time, even if it means trimming just one or two nails at a time until your dog becomes comfortable. 2. Don’t Force Your Dog Avoid putting your dog in an awkward or uncomfortable position, like flipping them onto their back. Keep them relaxed and in a natural position to ensure a smoother process. 3. Don’t Trim Too Much Be cautious and trim only the tip of the nail. Cutting too much, especially with dark or black nails, increases the risk of hitting the quick. Always stay below the curve of the nail. 4. Don’t Forget to Smooth Rough Edges After clipping, use a dog-specific nail grinder to smooth out sharp or rough edges. This prevents nails from snagging on surfaces and keeps them more comfortable. 5. Don’t Ignore Signs of Distress Pay attention to your dog’s body language. Signs of discomfort or fear should not be ignored, as they may lose trust in you. Address their concerns calmly and patiently. By following these tips, you can make nail trimming a stress-free experience for both you and your dog, ensuring their health and happiness. Overgrown Nails Dogs with overly long nails can experience discomfort, increased risk of injury, and difficulty walking, potentially leading to problems like arthritis or even deformed feet. Regular nail trimming is crucial for their well-being. Here's a more detailed explanation: Problems with Long Nails Discomfort and Pain:  Long nails can cause pain and discomfort when a dog walks or stands, especially if the nails are so long that they curl over and dig into the paw pads.  Mobility Issues:  Overgrown nails can make it difficult for dogs to walk and run correctly, potentially leading to slips and falls.  Increased Risk of Injury:  Long nails can cause a dog to place their feet differently, potentially straining muscles and ligaments in the legs.  Joint Problems:  To compensate for the discomfort of long nails, a dog might change how they walk, which could put extra stress on their joints and increase the risk of arthritis.  Nail Bed Issues:  Overgrown nails can lead to nail bed issues, bleeding, and infection.  Fractured or Broken Nails:  Long nails are more prone to chipping, tearing, splitting, and breaking, which can be very painful and may require veterinary treatment.  Identifying Overgrown Nails Clicking on the Floor:  If you can hear your dog's nails clicking on the floor, they are likely too long.  Discomfort or Irregular Walking:  If your dog seems uncomfortable walking or if they are walking in an irregular way, their nails might be too long.  Trimming Overgrown Nails Gradual Trimming:  If your dog's nails are overgrown, it's best to trim them gradually, a little bit at a time, to allow the quick (the blood vessels and nerves) to recede.  Regular Trimming:  Aim to trim your dog's nails regularly, perhaps every 2-4 weeks, depending on their growth rate.  Seek Professional Help:  If you are unsure how to trim your dog's nails, or if your dog is very anxious about nail trimming, consult a veterinarian or groomer.

What Are Dog Warts? Canine viral papillomatosis may sound alarming, but it’s simply the technical term for warts (papillomas) in dogs. While any dog can develop warts, they are more common in dogs with weakened immune systems or those frequently exposed to other dogs. Younger dogs often develop warts in their mouths, whereas older dogs are more prone to warts on their skin. Symptoms of Dog Warts Dog warts typically resemble tiny cauliflower-like growths. However, there are less common types, such as inverted papillomas (firm lumps with a central dot) and dark, scaly plaques with irregular surfaces. Warts can appear in various locations, including: -In and around the mouth -Around the eyes -Between the toes -Anywhere on the skin What Causes Dog Warts? Dog warts are caused by papillomavirus infections. Dogs with warts can spread the virus to other dogs, but it is not contagious to other animals or humans. Once infected with a specific type of papillomavirus, a dog becomes immune to that strain, though they remain susceptible to others. Treating Dog Warts In most cases, warts resolve on their own within six to eight weeks as the dog’s immune system fights off the virus. However, veterinary intervention may be needed under certain circumstances: -If warts are numerous, large, or located in areas causing secondary issues like lameness, difficulty eating or drinking, or eye irritation.  -If warts bleed or become infected.  -If warts persist for more than three to five months, as they could potentially develop into cancerous tumors.  -If the dog is on immunosuppressive medications or has other serious health conditions, making it difficult to clear the warts independently. Treatment Options: -Surgical Removal:  For single or small clusters of warts, surgical removal using a scalpel, laser, or cryosurgery (freezing) is often the best option.  -Medications:  When a large number of warts cause significant problems, medications may be required to assist in their resolution. Consult your veterinarian to determine the best course of action for your dog’s specific case.

How Neglected Tangles Can Harm Your Dog (and How to Prevent Them!) While many groomers may never encounter hematomas, the majority will likely face this issue at some point. Since it’s “summer shave-down season,” when this problem becomes more common, it’s important to address it. There are two main types of hematomas typically seen on dogs' ears: 1. Swollen, Blood-Filled Ears This type of hematoma causes the ear to swell with blood, resembling a balloon. Several factors can lead to this condition: Ear infections  causing scratching or head shaking  Snoods  left on for too long  Rubber bands left around the ear leather instead of the hair  Injuries  to the ear This type of hematoma occurs when a blood vessel in the ear breaks, causing blood to pool between the layers of ear tissue. The affected ear becomes swollen, warm, and tender. Treatment often involves draining the blood and, in many cases, surgery to cauterize the blood vessel and prevent further pooling. Without proper treatment, the ear may shrivel into a “cauliflower ear,” which is not only unsightly but also uncomfortable for the pet. For hematomas caused by restricted blood flow (e.g., from tight snoods or rubber bands), simple massage can often resolve the issue. To treat: -Remove the offending object restricting blood flow.  -Hold the ear upright and apply firm, steady pressure in a circular motion, moving from the bottom of the hematoma to the top.  -Continue massaging for 30 minutes to an hour (depending on the dog and hematoma size) to encourage blood to re-enter the bloodstream. Important Note: Hematomas caused by trauma or infection do NOT respond to massage and require veterinary care. 2. Ear Tip Bleeding or Splitting This type of hematoma affects the ends of the ear leather, leading to seeping or dripping blood and, in some cases, splitting of the ear tips. Common causes include: -Severe matting  (the primary cause) -Plucking of excessively hairy ears -Ear infections -Clipper irritation Matting is especially dangerous for ears, as it restricts blood flow and traps moisture and dirt, weakening the skin. When mats are quickly removed, a sudden rush of blood to weakened tissue can cause bleeding. Even if no mats are present, shaving the ear can feel strange to the dog, prompting head shaking that leads to ear injury. Dirty, wet hair that is tight to the skin is a recipe for disaster. Moisture as well as lack of blood flow weakens skin causing it to be thinner and more likely to tear or bleed. After Shaving Extremely Matted Ears: Secure the Ears Post-Shave: After shaving, use a Happy Hoodie, vet wrap, or a sock fashioned into a head wrap to secure the ears close to the head. This helps prevent head shaking and minimizes the risk of further injury. Monitor the dog to ensure the wrap stays in place and check the ears after 30 minutes. Use Ice for Bleeding Concerns: If bleeding is suspected or already occurring, apply ice to the ears to restrict blood flow and reduce the risk of further bleeding. When to Call the Vet If bleeding persists or a hematoma is forming, take your dog to a vet. Vets often treat these injuries with steroid injections and antibiotics to manage inflammation and prevent infection. Final Thoughts While shaving or grooming may trigger the issue, the underlying causes—such as matting, infection, or irritation—are usually pre-existing. By being aware of the risks and prepared to address them properly, you can ensure the safety of the dog. Share this information with clients will help to educate and prevent future issues.

Why Fleas Are the Worst Roommates (and How to Kick Them Out) Fleas are resilient, blood-sucking insects that have existed for millions of years. Females consume fifteen times their body weight in blood daily and can produce a quarter of a million fleas in thirty days. Once they have a blood meal, the female fleas begin to lay eggs. Twenty five adult female fleas can produce as many as a quarter of a million fleas in just thirty days! Fleas are Bad News Fleas can cause severe allergic reactions, flea bite dermatitis, and secondary infections in pets. In extreme cases, pets may become anemic. Fleas also bite humans and transmit diseases like tapeworms, Murine Typhus, and Bubonic Plague. How do pets get fleas? Fleas can jump 150 times their length and hitch rides on clothing, shoes, blankets, or towels that touch the ground. Can't see fleas but your pet is scratching? Your pet might be reacting to flea bites. Flea dirt, resembling pepper specks, indicates flea's presence. Act quickly to eliminate them. Getting rid of fleas Treat all pets and their environments. Flea shampoos kill fleas but offer little residual protection. Utilize flea combs, sprays, collars, powders, and dips, ensuring products are suitable for pet's age and species. Conquering the Ferocious Flea Attack – Surround – Defeat! When you are fighting fleas, it is indeed a war. You must treat everywhere that fleas live and reproduce. Start by eliminating the fleas on your pet. Ideally, you can schedule an appointment for your pet with the vet, while you, or a professional exterminator, thoroughly de-flea your home, yard, and car. Wash all your pet's bedding in hot, soapy water. Vacuum your carpets and furniture thoroughly, then seal and throw away the vacuum bag. Steam cleaning your carpets and upholstery is also helpful in removing biting fleas and eggs. Treat your yard with spray or pelleted insecticide (containing insect growth regulator IGR). When you are finished, your pet and his environment should be completely free of fleas. Keeping your Pet Flea-Free Year-round flea control includes oral or topical products. Consult your vet and follow instructions for your pet's specific needs. Continuous protection is more cost-effective than treating infestations. Disadvantages Fleas have to come in contact with the product to be killed. That means that fleas actually have to get on, and could possibly bite your pet, before they die. There is also a possibility of skin irritation at the site of application. Sweet Success With professional guidance and diligent treatment, you can effectively combat fleas and protect your pets and home.

Spot the Signs, Remove Safely, and Keep Your Pup Protected Ticks are tiny bugs that like to hide on your dog and feed off its blood. Here's how to tell if your dog has a tick. Ticks can carry diseases harmful to dogs and humans. Regularly check your dog for ticks, especially if they are outside in wooded or grassy areas. Ticks are active year-round, with increased activity in spring and fall. What Do Ticks Look Like on Dogs? A tick is a small parasite that can be identified as a hard bump on a dog's skin, usually dark brown or black in colour. Depending on its life stage, a tick may possess six legs (larvae) or eight legs (nymphs and adults). If the tick has been attached to the dog for an extended period, it may become engorged from feeding on the dog's blood, resulting in a light brown or gray appearance. In such instances, a tick may be mistaken for a small skin lump or cyst. Ticks are typically found near a dog';s neck, head, ears, and in the creases under their legs. Most people only notice ticks after the creatures have attached themselves to a dog to blood feed. But it's important to know that when ticks get on a dog, they will often move around the body searching for the best place to bite and blood feed. Signs Your Dog Has a Tick If you start seeing the following symptoms, your dog may have a tick somewhere on their body: -Licking and chewing:  Your dog may lick and chew at a particular area on its body where the tick is located. -Red, inflamed skin: Sometimes, the skin around the embedded tick can become swollen, inflamed, and red. -Anemia:  If a dog, typically a smaller breed dog or puppy, is infested with lots of ticks, the ticks can drink so much blood that the dog becomes anemic. Dogs with ticks may have pale gums and be lethargic. -Scabs:  There may be a tick embedded in your dog's skin if you find random scabs on your pet's body. -Head shaking: Ticks sometimes crawl into a dog's ear canal or latch onto the ear's outer flap, and head shaking may be one indication. -Tick paralysis:  In rare situations, some ticks may inject a toxin into your dog's system while feeding, causing weakness and paralysis of the legs and body. While it's alarming, removing the tick will return function to your dog's body. -Tick disease:  If a dog comes down with a tick disease, by the time the owner notices the symptoms the tick will be long gone. That's because tick disease symptoms typically don't present themselves until months after the tick bite. In such cases, you might notice fever, tiredness, shifting lameness, pale gums, and difficulty breathing. -Lyme disease:  This well-known tick-borne disease can cause depression, loss of appetite, fever, swollen lymph nodes, and renal failure. Try to avoid dealing with ticks by keeping your dog on preventives. If you do find the parasite on your dog, you'll want to carefully remove it. How to Remove a Tick from a Dog — The Right Way No matter how careful you might be, chances are your dog will pick up a tick if they spend any time outside. Ticks are stubborn parasites commonly found in long grass and woodland areas. They latch on as your dog passes by, and once they’ve attached, they can be difficult to remove. Though ticks will drop off your dog after they’ve finished feeding, this process can take days, during which time the tick can transmit diseases — including Lyme disease — to your pet that can cause serious health problems. The longer they stay attached, the greater the risk of infection. That’s why it’s important to remove a tick as soon as you see one on your dog. Here’s how to do it safely. How to Remove a Tick from a Dog in 8 Steps 1. Gather Your Supplies The first thing you need to start the tick removal process is a tick-removal tool specifically designed to help you safely remove ticks from your dog in one piece. You may also use tweezers with a pointed end if you don’t have a tick-removal tool. You should also wear a set of gloves to protect your hands during the process. Always wear gloves when dealing with ticks: The ticks found on your dog are very effective disease carriers, and some of these diseases can also affect you and your family. Finally, have a pet-friendly antiseptic, disinfectant and a sealed container handy to dispose of the tick after you remove it. 2. Keep Your Dog Calm and Relaxed Only try to remove ticks from your dog when they are calm and lying down. Wait until your dog is still enough for you to get a good grasp of the tick with the removal tool. If you try to pull it out quickly, you risk leaving the tick head stuck in your dog, which can increase the risk of infection. It will be easier to remove the tick in one piece if your dog is still. A bone or treat may help keep them occupied while you work to remove the tick. 3. Expose the Tick Put on your gloves and use water or rubbing alcohol to flatten your dog's hair around the tick. Gently part your dog’s fur around the tick and keep it flat with one hand, leaving your other hand free to pull the tick out. Take your time with this step to successfully remove the tick. Since it has already latched onto your dog, it will stay in place and may not move around after you expose it. Ticks bury their head into the dog's skin so their abdomen is the only visible part, so be careful not to leave the head embedded when removing the tick. 4. Use a Tick-removal Tool to Pull the Tick from Your Dog A tick hook is shaped to get under the parasite’s body and pull it out in one motion without squeezing; squeezing the tick could push bacteria-rich tick saliva into the bite wound. These tools can be bought from your local vet’s office as well as some supermarkets and online retailers. Follow the instructions on your tick-removal tool to remove the tick. The general process is usually: 1. Slowly slide the tool underneath the tick. 2. Pinch and pull gently. 3. Move steadily and straight upward to remove the tick. Regular tweezers are not generally recommended for tick removal, as these are more likely to crush the tick or leave the tick head embedded in your dog. If you’re using tweezers, pull the tick out in one straight motion. Don't squeeze too hard, pull too fast or twist the tweezers. 5. Clean the Tick Bite Gently wipe the affected area on your dog with an antiseptic designed for pets, or use soap and water. 6. Check for Other Ticks on Your Dog After you have removed the tick, there's a good chance there will be another one on your dog's body, so be sure to check their coat thoroughly. Also check their feet, foot pads and ears, as ticks often frequent these areas. 7. Dispose of the Tick After you remove the tick, take a picture of it and then place it in a lidded jar or sealable container with alcohol, close the lid and throw it away. Another option is to tape the tick to a piece paper, which will dry out the tick, effectively killing it. Throw away the piece of paper after snapping a photo. Why take a photo before disposing of the tick? If you have a picture, you can show it to your vet for identification in the event that your dog starts to show any symptoms of tick diseases. Be sure to throw away the gloves and wash your hands thoroughly afterward. Clean your tick tool with disinfectant and store it somewhere safely for future use. 8. Watch for Tick Disease Symptoms Monitor your dog for any changes in behavior over the weeks or months following tick removal, and visit your vet if any unusual symptoms arise, such as lethargy or lack of energy, difficulty using one or more legs (lameness), or rapid breathing. What to Do If the Tick's Head Is Stuck in Your Dog's Skin It’s not uncommon for the tick’s head or mouthparts to break off as you remove it. If this happens and you can still see and grasp the embedded tick parts, you can try to pull the remaining parts out of your dog’s skin. If you’re unsuccessful or can’t get a good grasp, you have two options: Leave the area alone and let your dog’s body work the mouthparts out on its own or make an appointment with your vet. No matter which option you choose, avoid poking or prodding at the embedded tick parts; doing so can both be painful for your dog and push the tick further into your dog’s skin, which could cause irritation and infection. If you leave the head in your dog’s skin, wash the area with warm soapy water. Over the next few days, check the area to ensure it’s healing properly and doesn’t look red or inflamed; contact your vet if you notice any signs of infection.

Understanding Lice on Dogs If your dog or someone in your family has lice, you might worry about how this parasite spreads. Here’s some reassuring news: humans cannot get lice from dogs, and dogs cannot pick up lice from humans. Lice are species-specific, meaning the lice that feed on your dog’s blood won’t switch to humans, and vice versa. However, lice infestations in dogs can still cause significant discomfort and health issues. Like fleas, lice can lead to itching, pain, inflammation, and hair loss. In severe cases, they may result in more serious health problems. Recognizing and addressing lice infestations promptly is crucial for your dog’s well-being. What Are Dog Lice? Dog lice are tiny, flat, wingless insects with six legs, which cling to the hair shafts of mammals and birds using hook-like claws. These claws are specifically adapted to the size of the host’s hair or feathers, making lice species-specific. Dog lice feed on skin debris, sebaceous secretions, feathers, or blood, depending on the type. There are two types of lice that affect dogs: 1. Chewing Lice  -Feed on skin debris and surface secretions.  -Have a blunt, flat head.  -Two species commonly affect dogs:  -Trichodectes canis: Found worldwide; typically lives on a host for 30 days.  -Heterodoxus spiniger: Found mostly in tropical regions; rarely seen on dogs in North America but observed on wild canids like coyotes and foxes. 2. Sucking Lice  -Feed on blood and have sharp, pointed mouthparts.  -The species affecting dogs is Linognathus setosus.  -Common in tropical and subtropical regions across North and South America, Africa, India, and Asia. Signs Your Dog Has Lice Adult lice are visible to the naked eye and are about the size of a sesame seed (2-4 millimeters). They range in color from yellow to tan or medium brown. You can spot them by parting your dog’s hair and examining the hair shafts. Unlike fleas, which appear dark and almost black, lice are lighter in color. Chewing lice tend to move around more than sucking lice, which embed their mouthparts into the skin like ticks. To confirm an infestation, use a flea comb to inspect your dog’s coat. Dog owners often mistake lice eggs (nits) for dandruff. To differentiate, shake the hair removed from your dog: dandruff flakes will fall off, while lice eggs will cling stubbornly to the hair. Additional signs of lice infestations include:  -Intense scratching and itching.  -A rough, dry, or matted coat.  -Hair loss, especially around the ears, neck, shoulders, groin, and rectal areas.  -Small wounds or bacterial infections caused by sucking lice bites.  -Restlessness or discomfort.  -Anemia in severe cases, particularly in small dogs or puppies.  -Secondary infections such as tapeworms or other parasites spread by lice. How Do Dogs Get Lice? Lice have limited mobility; they cannot jump, hop, or fly. They crawl and usually spread through direct contact with an infested animal. Contaminated bedding, collars, or grooming tools can also transmit lice. Dogs in communal settings like daycare centers, kennels, or parks are at higher risk. The louse life cycle consists of three stages: egg, nymph, and adult.  -Female lice lay tiny yellow or white eggs at the base of hair shafts, gluing them firmly in place.  -Eggs hatch into immature lice (nymphs) within a week.  -Nymphs mature into adults in about another week, completing the cycle in 3-4 weeks. How to Treat Dog Lice Lice infestations are rare among well-cared-for dogs due to the widespread use of monthly flea and tick preventives. However, they are more common in stray, feral, or neglected animals. For severe infestations:  -Clip matted hair where lice and eggs are attached. - Use a flea comb to remove live and dead lice from the rest of the coat. Afterward, immerse the comb in water mixed with flea shampoo or insecticide for at least 10 minutes. Topical insecticides, including permethrin, are effective against lice. Always consult your veterinarian to choose the safest treatment for your dog, considering their age, breed, and health. Be cautious if you own cats, as some dog treatments can be toxic to felines.

Why Is Your Dog Shedding So Much? (And When to Worry) If you have a pet with shedding hair, you know the constant battle to keep it under control. While managing shedding isn’t easy, there are effective ways to minimize it. The first step is understanding why pets shed. Why Do Pets Shed? A pet’s hair grows in cycles, and shedding is a natural part of this process. Hair begins in a growth phase, reaches maturity, enters a resting phase, and eventually falls out to make way for new growth. Some breeds shed more than others. Factors like temperature, sunlight exposure, health, and genetics play a role. For instance, Siberian Huskies have dense double coats designed for cold climates. When the weather warms, their undercoats loosen and shed in a seasonal process often called “blowing the coat.” Huskies shed heavily in spring and fall as they adapt to temperature changes. Indoor pets, however, experience less variation in light and temperature, leading to consistent, year-round shedding. This can become a significant challenge for pet owners. Do Shedding Pets Trigger Allergies? A common myth is that pet hair causes allergies. In reality, the primary allergen is pet dander—dead skin cells that are constantly shed. Hair itself isn’t a major allergen, but it can trap airborne allergens like pollen, dust, and mold. Removing loose hair can significantly reduce these allergens and dander in your environment. Can’t I Just Cut All the Hair Off? While trimming your pet’s hair might seem like a solution, it doesn’t stop shedding. Shorter hair still sheds and will continue to fall out unless manually removed through brushing or other de-shedding methods. Additionally, excessively short cuts can sometimes result in improper hair regrowth. Managing Shedding: What’s the Solution? For pet owners dealing with shedding, removing the undercoat is often a messy and time-consuming task. While daily brushing helps, professional grooming can provide a more thorough solution. Groomers are trained in specialized techniques and use tools designed to remove more loose hair than regular brushing. The Professional De-Shedding Process 1. Initial Brushing and Examination: Groomers begin by thoroughly brushing your pet and assessing their coat and skin. 2. Bathing with Specialized Products: Your pet is bathed with de-shedding shampoo and conditioner, which stimulate hair follicles and loosen the undercoat. 3. Drying and Hair Removal: After rinsing and towel drying, a high-velocity dryer is used to remove loose hair. 4. Final Touches: Groomers use specialized tools to meticulously remove remaining detached hair without irritating your pet’s skin. You may even be surprised by the amount of hair removed! However, because hair grows and sheds in cycles, de-shedding isn’t a one-time fix. Your groomer can recommend how often your pet should return for maintenance. What Is Stress Shedding? Have you ever noticed your pet shedding excessively at the vet or during car rides? Stress, nervousness, and excitement can trigger shedding. While some stress shedding might occur after a grooming session, it typically subsides within 24 hours, leaving you with less hair around the house. Tips for Managing Shedding at Home 1. Proper Nutrition: A healthy coat starts with a nutritious diet. Feed your pet high-quality food and consider supplements or treats with essential fatty acids to reduce non-seasonal shedding. 2. Effective Tools: Invest in grooming tools designed for your pet’s coat type. Your groomer can help you select the best options and teach you how to use them effectively. 3. Regular Brushing: Make grooming a bonding experience. Your pet will enjoy the attention, and you’ll reduce the amount of loose hair in your home. Your pet will enjoy the time you spend together and all the attention he receives during your ‘at-home’ sessions. With our help, you will be able to think less about shedding hair - and spend more time enjoying your pet.

Shaving a Double Coated Dog Shaving an extremely matted double-coated dog can provide immediate relief from discomfort and reduce the risk of skin problems, but it's important to understand the potential downsides and consider alternative solutions.  Here's a breakdown of the benefits and drawbacks: Benefits of Shaving: Relief from Discomfort: Mats can cause pain, discomfort, and skin irritation, and shaving can provide immediate relief by removing the matted fur. Reduced Risk of Skin Problems: Mats can trap moisture and dirt, leading to skin infections, hot spots, and other skin issues. Shaving can help prevent these problems. Improved Hygiene: Shaving can make it easier to clean and groom the dog's coat, promoting better hygiene and reducing the risk of odor. Drawbacks of Shaving: Coat Damage: Shaving can damage the coat, as the undercoat and guard hairs may not regrow in the same way, potentially leading to a different texture or appearance. Skin Irritation: Shaving can cause razor burn, hot spots, and irritated skin, especially if done improperly or if the dog is overly sensitive. Heat Sensitivity: While counterintuitive, shaving a double-coated dog can remove its natural insulation, making it more susceptible to overheating in hot weather. Not a Long-Term Solution: Shaving doesn't address the underlying cause of matting, which is often a lack of proper grooming or shedding. Alternatives to Shaving:  Professional Grooming: A professional groomer can carefully remove mats using specialized tools and techniques, minimizing the risk of injury and damage. Detangling Products: Using detangling sprays or oils can help loosen mats and make them easier to remove. Regular Grooming: Regular brushing and combing can help prevent mats from forming in the first place. Consult with a Groomer: If mats are severe or causing significant discomfort, a Groomer can provide advice and recommend appropriate treatment. Shaving a matted double-coated dog can be a necessary step in some cases, but it's important to weigh the benefits and drawbacks and consider alternative solutions whenever possible.

Matted fur isn't just cosmetic! It causes discomfort, pain, and can lead to skin infections. How Matting Happens And how can I prevent it for your pet? Using the wrong type of brush is a common mistake. Additionally, giving home baths without properly drying your pet can lead to severe matting. The Solution When a pet's hair becomes severely matted, there is simply no way to remove it except to give the pet a very short haircut with a professional groomer. ✂️  The "Shaving" Process It's not just shaving! It’s very time consuming, as the groomer must use extreme caution while removing the tightly matted coat from your pet. (It is incredibly difficult and delicate work to release your pet, inch by inch, from the hairy prison surrounding him). As the matting is removed, it may reveal skin conditions, parasites, or even foreign objects embedded in the pet's hair. After Shaving: Essential Care Sensitive skin? Itching? Your pet may want to rub and scratch, but you must not allow him to further irritate himself. Be especially aware that your pet's freshly clipped nails may be sharp and could cause secondary problems if he scratches and digs at his tender skin. Rebuilding Trust Your pet will feel different after its matted coat is removed! Going from being encased in hair to almost no hair can be traumatic for your pet. Reassure your pet with lots of praise and love. Tell him he looks beautiful! The Importance of a Grooming Routine Now that your pet has very short hair, you have the opportunity for a fresh start. This is the time to form a working partnership you and your pet groomer. Brush, comb, shampoo... Your groomer helps you choose the ideal tools and products for your pet's fur. The Big Payoff… a Happy Pet! Working together with your groomer to obtain the proper products for your pet's care and to learn how to use them correctly will ensure that your pet always looks and feels his best. Their happiness is your reward. ❤️

Causes and Treatment Noticing small white flakes on your dog's fur? Dog dandruff is usually a sign of dry skin, commonly seen in young puppies due to their developing sebaceous glands. This condition can also be caused by environmental factors, nutritional deficiencies, or even parasites. What Does Dog Dandruff Look Like? Dog dandruff appears as white, small flakes on the fur, similar to human dandruff. It may be more noticeable on darker coats and can sometimes be accompanied by itching. Common Causes of Dog Dandruff Immature sebaceous glands: Common in puppies, leading to dry skin. Low humidity: Dry air can dehydrate the skin. Food allergies: Some ingredients may cause skin irritation. Nutritional deficiencies: Lack of essential fatty acids like Omega-3. Parasites: Mites and other skin parasites can contribute to flakiness. How to Treat Dog Dandruff 1. Regular Grooming Brushing your dog's coat helps distribute natural oils and remove dead skin cells, reducing dandruff. 2. Bathing Your Dog Use a dog-friendly shampoo, and if necessary, a medicated shampoo based on the type of dandruff: Dry dandruff: Look for shampoos with iodine, sulfur, or salicylic acid. Oily dandruff: Opt for shampoos containing benzoyl peroxide, coal tar, or selenium sulfide. 3. Adjusting Diet Ensure your dog gets a balanced diet rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, zinc, and vitamins A & E. Consider fish oil supplements to promote a healthier coat. 4. Hydration Encourage your dog to drink enough water. If needed, add water to their food or use broth to make hydration more appealing. When to See a Vet Severe flaking, excessive itching, redness, or hair loss. Signs of an allergic reaction or parasitic infection. Final Thoughts Dog dandruff can be managed with proper care, diet, and hydration. Regular grooming and choosing the right products will help keep your pet's skin and coat healthy!

What They Are and What They Mean Most of us have dealt with a stubborn lock of hair that can't be combed flat no matter what. But did you know that dogs also have cowlicks? These small patches of hair grow in a spiral or circular pattern in a different direction from the rest of the hair. Interestingly, the direction the cowlick grows can even tell you some things about your furry friend's behavior and personality! Types of Cowlicks in Dogs: Cowlicks, also known as hair whorls, appear in two different ways: Simple Cowlicks: Hairs stem from a central point, forming a flat, swirling pattern. Tufted Cowlicks: Hairs merge from various directions to a central point, creating a tuft of hair. How Cowlicks Grow Some cowlicks are easier to see on short-coated dogs, while on long-coated breeds, they can be felt by running your hand through the fur. A cowlick can grow in two directions: Clockwise: Typically found on the right side of the body. Counterclockwise: More common on the left side. Where Do Cowlicks Appear? Dogs can have cowlicks in up to 10 different areas of their bodies. The most common locations include: Chest (usually in the center) Front legs (upper part) Elbows (close to the bony area on the back of the front legs) Rump (near the rectum, two cowlicks on each side) Zipper Nose: A Unique Cowlick Some dogs even have a "zipper nose" – a thin line of hair growing in a different direction along the bridge of the nose. This is simply another type of cowlick and is completely normal. Final Thoughts Cowlicks are a fascinating feature of canine fur that make each dog unique. Whether on their chest, legs, or nose, these hair patterns are completely natural and add to the charm of your furry companion!